Berat

Berat is a city of just under 50 000 inhabitants that has attracted me several times. It’s no wonder, as Berat was inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2008. In the old town of Berat, the white houses of the Ottoman period are built almost on top of each other on the steep slope of the mountain. Looking out over this landscape from the road along the Osumi River, it’s easy to understand the name “City of a Thousand Windows”. The wooden landscape of the Pispala hillside in Tampere is stunning in its Finnishness, but the historic stone houses of Berat, ornate from the 1700s and 1800s, are well worth seeing and experiencing. The old town centre consists of three parts: Kalaja (the fortress area), Mangalem (below the fortress) and Gorica (south of the Osumi River) at the foot of Shpirag Mountain.

As you walk through the streets of Berat, the sense of urgency disappears. People stroll peacefully along the promenades, older men play in the park and swim fish lines in the water. Young architecture students twirl their heads and swipe their glasses as they admire the timeless beauty and visual identity of the buildings. Cats stroll along the stone fences or play outside the windows of the apartments, watching the world go by. The old town of Berat is well worth exploring by walking up and down the narrow streets. In between, you can stop off at one of the dozens of cafés for a good coffee and a delicious pastry. It’s a tempting opportunity to people-watch and reflect on the stories of buildings that have stood the test of time.

When you’re ready to climb majestically to the top of Tomorr’s mountain-top castle (Kalaja e Beratit), make sure you have plenty to drink. The climb will reward you with stunning views down to the town and the surrounding countryside. The castle largely dates back to the 13th century and within its walls are historic buildings and archaeology, watchtowers and ammunition depots. There are also Byzantine churches and Ottoman mosques. The castle is not just a tourist attraction, however: along its cobbled streets live local people who form a lively village community with shops and cafés.

One of our most interesting excursions in Berat led us to the Orthodox Church of St Michael (Kisha e Shën Mehillit). The church can be seen from below the fortress almost by chance, as the colour of the rock provides a good camouflage for the building. To find the church, we made a few detours before finding the right path on the steep mountainside. However, a winding path was found and we set off climbing it as birdsong accompanied us upwards in temperatures of well over 30 degrees. With the sweat pouring down and our shirts getting wet, we almost gave up until we reached a rocky structure that we hopefully thought was a gate. It was, and around a small bend the church came into view.

One of the things that shows Albania’s tourism is half-baked is the lack of attention paid to accessibility. People with reduced mobility, visual impairments and other special needs may face major challenges if they wish to explore beyond the main street.

At the church we were met by a man who was apparently a city employee. He spoke to us enthusiastically in Albanian, and all we could understand were a few words that we had learned on our previous trips to Albania. Surprisingly, he walked away with quick steps and returned in a flash, carrying a can of water. The man gestured, pointing alternately to the canister and to his head, which he held down. He had evidently noticed our red faces, from which drops were running down the bridge of our noses. What on earth? Now I realized what he was insisting on doing. He poured a generous splash of water over our heads and then looked pleased to have relieved the heat a little. Admittedly, the cold water didn’t feel bad at all in that heat and situation, although it was a slightly odd situation. Afterwards, we were given a tour of this small but beautiful orthodox church.

After an adventure, it’s always nice to think about where to enjoy a refreshing meal. Berat is no different from other cities, with restaurants to suit every taste. Good places to eat can be found especially south of the Osumi River, in Gorica, where we always headed when we were hungry. You can also take a walk around the river on your way to eat, as there are two bridges over the river. As a man, I would also recommend trying the hairdressers, who are happy to take clients. I stopped going to the barber twenty years ago because I decided to save money and bought a clipper to shave my head. Albanian men tend to have very well-groomed, neat hair and that is why I dare to recommend barbers. On one trip to Berat, I abandoned my principle and went to Barber for the first time in a long time. I had my holiday beard trimmed, which cost a whopping 200 leke, or about 2 euros. That’s not much for a relaxing moment in the hands of a skilled man.

I haven’t had a chance to explore the newer Berat yet, but there will come a time for that too. Among other things, it’s home to the huge, domed, five-star Hotel Colombo, which looks like it will be available for €48 in January 2025. Booking.com advertises the hotel as ‘Stay like a celebrity and enjoy world-class service at Hotel Colombo’. I want to experience that one day!